![]() My attic is all finished and I will just put up with the cracks for now but they bug me. I stopped using the mesh since it wasn't successful but I cant exactly blame the mesh tape, because the root cause of that issue might really be more about how the drywall itself is attached. on one of the first places where the issue appeared I tried to fix it I put mesh tape but the crack transferred, I guess the sheets might shake when a door gets slammed from wind and that makes the crack come through, because the sheets move. To fix it properly I might need to open patches and attach it better but I hate to stir it all up now. If he were to use drywall perhaps it would look too flat and thus out of place. In James's case he is refinishing a room in a house with plaster walls and he might not want every wall dead flat. in my case I needed to finish it and I do have ideas about creating panels at a later date but I didn't want to delay completion of the room. One day I might want to replace the wainscot or panels but I can always just put that over the drywall. when they took out the wainscott they replaced it with drywall so yea I just tore it all out since there wasn't that much plaster work left in there to save anyway. originally it had some sort of panelling or wainscott and i could tell it just had a scratch coat of plaster from eye level to the floor. In my living room I had plaster on the ceillng and then old drywall on the walls from the floor to eye level. so in my attic using plaster wasn't considered since it never existed to begin with. My attic never had any plaster, it had beaverboard and 70's panelling. they were simply too lazy to put enough blocking where it was needed, slipping a 2x4 in there where sheets join would have taken an extra 5 minutes. all the areas where I applied the drywall are ok, but it is something to watch for. ![]() It's a can of worms I keep looking at and wondering how to fix. I have a different problem, I hired drywallers that did not take enough time to put enough blocking where the sheets join, and as a result I have some drywall cracks where the sheets meet. In other words if it is used with only the taping mud and not glue as it normally is, then you need to use more taping mud or you will have adhesion issues. If I did not use the glue I wouldn't squeeze the tape down as tight because I have seen where the tape can come loose if it doesn't have enough taping mud between the tape and the surface it is bonded to. ( that you need to hide later) I wasn't sure if paint between helps the bond or hinders it if he uses plaster and not mud. I used the normal drywall tape on top of the primered surface and wet the tape itself with 50 / 50 glue and water, then as I start bedding the tape that mix I use has some mud with glue and I bed it down tighter than normal ( more knife pressure) to avoid bulges in the tape. I think it says on the can it is ok for sealing in the calcimine paint. When I finished over plaster I put "kilz" primer. I dont doubt that he could also use a finishing mud, it might be easier to work with in the final stages. I assume that when you mix it there is some cure time so maybe it is a bit of work mixing but would perhaps adhere better. This sounds a bit more appropriate than just using drywall mud if James wants to steer away from traditional drywall mud. CGC Sheetrock® Brand Durabond® 45 Setting-Type Drywall Compound can also be used to fill, smooth and finish interior concrete ceilings and above-grade concrete." It is also ideal for laminating gypsum panels to above-grade concrete surfaces. It's special formulation provides a high strength bond with low shrinkage that finishes with a hard, plaster-like surface when dry and is virtually unaffected by humidity. It is an excellent compound for embedding tape, bead, and trims on gypsum panels. "Sheetrock® Durabond® 45 Setting-Type Drywall Compound is a multi-use product. I checked out the details for the durabond - I got this:
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